Basics of Sewing

Objectives

At the end of the lecture, students will be able to –

• Identify different types of hand and machine stitches
• Explain different method of hand and machine stitching
• Describe the importance of hand and machine stitches

Hand Stitches- Basting Stitch

• This is done by spacing the stitches out and running them long, making them very easy to remove
• For a gathered, ruffled, or ruched detail basting stitch is runned across all of fabric, gently pulled the top thread by hand to cause the fabric to bunch
• Gather or ruching is secured with a straight stitch

Hand Basting Stitch

Machine Basting

Lengthen the stitch and loosen tension. It holds ruffles and gathers in place and helps to keep bias edges from stretching

Tacking Stitch

Tacking Stitch

Used for permanently attaching snaps, hooks and eyes 

Straight Stitches

• Used to join two pieces of fabric together at a seam, to hem, and to topstitch, basting and gathering
• Tightness and spacing of a straight stitch is varied by adjusting the settings on machine

Zigzag Stitches

• The zigzag makes neat and ideal for finishing raw edges, suitable for knit or stretchy fabrics

Overcast Stitch

• Used for finishing raw edges and hems
• This is like a blanket stitch and makes a neat line across the top of an edge and is paired with

straight or diagonal vertical stitches

Back Stitch

• Make one running stitch, then take a back stitch to the beginning of the first stitch, thus overlapping each running stitch
• Resembles machine stitching and is used to strengthen a seam made by hand

Hand Overcast Stitch/Whip Stitch

• Work evenly, and as closely together for a secure edge
• The blanket stitch is a decorative stitch to finish either a raw edge. Work the stitches evenly, and as closely together as necessary to cover the raw edge

Hand Overcast Stitch

Button Hole Stitch

Controls fraying as well as creating a decorative edge. Put the needle under and through the fabric edge; loop the thread around the needle point, and pull the needle through. Tighten the thread, positioning the “knot” of the stitch at the fabric edge

Sewing on the Button

Sew-through and Shank

Buttonhole Stitch

The buttonhole stitch is done with the use of a special presser foot, using a teeny-tiny zigzag stitch to reinforce the edges of a slit

Button fixing

Hemming

The open side of hem is held toward you, work from right to left, catch a very small stitch in the garment and a slightly deeper stitch in hem as shown

Hemming Stitch

Slip Hem

The stitches on both right and wrong sides should be practically invisible. Take a small stitch in the garment, run the point of the needle in fold of hem about a quarter inch, pull out needle, take another small stitch in fabric and continue as before. Hems are sometimes slip stitched and linings are fastened to inside of coats in this manner.

Slip Hem

Slip Hem Stitch

Slip Hem Stitch

Blind Stitch

Catch Stitch

Stitches for  fashion production

Stitches for  fashion production

Basic Stitches

Applications of Hemming

• In neckline, arm hole finishing
• In skirts, joining of trimmings etc

Summary

The Lecture highlights on-

• Hand overcasting
• Button hole
• Hemming Stitches used for a Apparel Production

Reference

• Zieman, N. (2004) Sew with Confidence: A Beginner’s Guide to Basic Sewing
• Bardwell, S. (2011) Sewing Basics: All you need to know about Machine and Hand Sewing. Mudoch

Publisher

• Staff, E. (2007) Handbook of Garment manufacturing technology. published by Ei board.
• Mc Cunn, N. H. (2008) How to make sewing patterns. Blue Feather Products

Machine Stitches

• Introduction
• Types
• Methods
• Importance
• Application

• Select a straight stitch and a medium stitch length by rotating the lower knob on the right side of the machine
• Set the stitch with the needle up and out of the fabric Practice on some scrap material-

Choose a simple, woven material

Line up the fabric under the needle- Sew with the bulk of the material to the left of the machine; crowding the bulk on the right side can cause messy stitching

Lower the presser foot onto the fabric-

• There is a lever behind or to the side of the needle assembly that raises or lowers the presser foot. While sewing, the machine uses a feed dog under the presser foot to advance the fabric at the correct speed
• Feed dog under the presser foot to advance the fabric at the correct speed

Methods of Sewing

Machine Stitches

• Chain stitch, Lock stitch, Straight stitch, Zigzag stitch, Stretch stitch, Over lock, Cover stitch, Running stitch,Back stitch, Satin stitch and Outline stitch

Machine Stitches

Machine Stitches and Importance

Straight:    Used for     basting, seaming,     and   top stitching

Zigzag: The machine adds width to the straight stitch to make the zigzag stitch. Used for stitching around appliqués, making buttonholes, sewing on buttons, and embroidering

Machine Stitches and importance

Three-step zigzag:

The needle takes three stitches to one side and then three stitches to the other side, keeping the fabric flat and tunnel-free

Used on the widest width, the ordinary zigzag stitch pulls the fabric into a tunnel and the fabric rolls under the stitch. Used for finishing raw edges, sewing on elastic, mending tears, and making decorative effects

Machine Stitches and importance

Over lock:

• Used to stitch and finish seams in one step
• Used for woven and knitted fabrics

Machine Stitches and Importance

Decorative:

• Decorative stitches fall into two basic categories: Closed, satin-type stitches (such as the ball and diamond)
• Open, tracery-type stitches (such as the daisy and honeycomb)

Blind hem and stretch blind hem

• Used for woven fabrics -stitches are invisible when looked at from the right side of the garment
• The stretch blind hem stitch has an extra zigzag or two that stretches to invisibly hem knit fabrics
• Both stitches have decorative applications
• The Basic Chain stitch is made by first sending the needle down through the material
• The circular needle then releases the first loop and picks up the new loop and the process repeats
• The Double chain stitch uses two threads
• It is found in bulk material packaging, where it is used to close big bags

Formation of the double locking chain stitch

Method of Machine Stitching the Buttonhole

• Buttonhole foot is placed on the machine
• Measure the placement of needed buttonhole(s)
• Mark the placement with pins or tailor’s chalk
• Place presser foot at the one end of the buttonhole marking
• Zig Zag or Satin Stitch a bar the entire width of the buttonhole

Method of Machine Stitching the Buttonhole

• Set the stitch width to half the width and stitch down on side of the button hole to the other end
• Zig Zag or Satin Stitch a bar the entire width of the button hole at the far end
• Re-set your stitch width to half the width and return back to your starting point, keeping your second stitch line parallel to the first

Method of Machine Stitching the Buttonhole

• Repeat the process for a thicker and more solid stitching line
• Use a seam ripper or sharp scissor to open the area between the sewn edges

Method of Machine Stitching the Buttonhole

Summary

The lecture highlights on –

• Methods of doing basic hand stitches, tacking, basting, running, overcast, back, zigzag, straight etc.
• Explain the method making hand overcast, button hole, hemming stitches and apply the hem stitches in apparels
• Study of different machine stitches, method of construction and importance

Reference

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_stitch
• Bardwell, S. (2011) Sewing Basics: All you need to know about Machine and Hand Sewing. Mudoch

Publisher

• Bolsover, J. (2010) Sewing Machine Basics: A step by step course for first time stitchers. CICO publisher