Contents:
Pattern and Garment Making: Tools for pattern making and clothing construction- measuring, marking tools, cutting tools and sewing tools.
Objectives
After undergoing this Course, students will be able to:
- Identify various measuring , marking tools, cutting and sewing tools
- Explain various measuring , marking tools, cutting and sewing tools
- Describe the specifications of cutting and sewing tools
Sewing Tools and Equipment’s
- Measuring tools
- Marking/ Drafting tools
- Cutting tools
- Pressing tools
Tape Measure- a 60 inch long measuring device used in taking body measurements, drafting patterns, and measuring fabrics. It has a metal tip and reversible markings in centimetre's and inches
Measuring Tools
Tailor's square –
A 14x24 inch metal ruler with two arms that form 90 degree angle and a scale on back and side. It simultaneously measures, rules and squares
Vary form curve –
For blending and shaping armholes and necklines
Foot rule –
A wood or metal 12 inch straight ruler use to mark straight lines
Sewing Gauge –
A 6 inch gauge with a movable indicator convenient for measuring short lengths
Bullet Rulers:
These come in a variety of sizes the most common being the 18" and a yard/meter stick. The 18" ruler is generally made of clear plastic with a 1/8" grid, which allows the technician to see the fabric while he is working
Hem Gauge-
A measuring device marked with various depths and hemline folds. It is practical when hemming straight on grain edges
Yardstick/Meter stick-
Is used to measure fabric and to check grain line. It can be used in marking a long straight lines and in measuring hem lengths
The Hip Curve- is used in connecting or shaping slightly curve points. It has a measure of inches at the front and centimetres at the back part
Measuring Tools
Ruler -
Aids in connecting shorter lines, marked off in inches and centimetres Beeswax/Candle-
Makes the thread stronger and serves as lubricant, which makes the thread easier to use in sewing buttons and other hand sewing jobs
Marking Tools
Tailor's chalk - Black, white and yellow, used for marking fabric (available in wax and clay) Marking pens - for marking paper pattern
Pencils - 2hb
Marking Tools
French curve –
Is one of several curves used for shaping armholes and necklines
L Square
It is an L-shaped metal ruler; the long arm measures 24 inches, the short arm 14 inches.This has a perfect right angle corner and is used to draw lines at right angles at the time of drafting. It is helpful during the process of “straightening fabric” to check whether the corners of the fabric have got the right-angled structure
Skirt Marker
- Mark hem length accurately, adjustable and are available for use with chalk powder or pins
- It is useful as a measuring guide for marking width of hems, pleats, seam allowances etc. accurately
- Notches are provided at regular intervals along the gauge
- One edge of the notch is at right angles to the straight
Marking Tools
Marking/ Tailor's Chalk -
A thin piece of hard chalk used in tailoring for making temporary alteration marks on clothing
Dressmaker's carbon paper -
The function is like a carbon paper. It is available in different colours used with tracing wheel
Pin Cushion-
A cotton stuffed cloth cut and sewn in many
different shapes to keep the pins in place
Pins-
Used when cutting and sewing material. Helps save time in basting.
Cutting Tools
Bent-Handled Shears/Dress Maker Shears
7 to 8 inch long scissors suitable for cutting fabric because the blades rest flat on the cutting surface.
These scissors are available in left or right handed styles.
Cutting Tools
Trimming Scissors-
6 inch long scissors used for trimming and clipping
seams and for general use
Button Hole Scissors
These can be adjusted so as to cut button holes in any size required. They are useful if one needs to make many button holes.
Bent-Handle Shears
They are 8 to 10 inches long. They are used for cutting all types of fabrics. Shears differ from scissors in that they have one small ring handle for the thumb and a large ring handle for the second, third and fourth fingers
Electric Scissors
These are used in most sample rooms. They are ideal for cutting silk, nylon, soft and hard-to-cut fabric
Pinking Shears-
Cuts a zigzag edge and is used for finishing hem edges, seams, etc. It should not be used for cutting out a garment because it will not give an accurate cut line of the fabric.
Paper shears - used for cutting paper or pattern paper
Finishing shears - used to clean threads on a finish garment safely
Razor blade - used for opening seams or cutting
Seam Ripper-
Handy little tool for taking out seams and removing stitches. It must be used carefully so as not to cut the fabric
Cutting Board/Table-
A flat board placed on a table where the fabric is laid out and cut. The fabric can be pinned securely to the cutting board/table to prevent it from slipping
Embroidery scissors-
Are small, usually 4" to 5" in length with very sharp blades. Thread snips are a scissor variation that have short blades. Either tool is useful in trimming small areas of fabric or to clip threads during the construction process
Cutting Board or Table
These are large, flat tables used to spread fabric and patterns out while marking, pinning, and cutting. They are often covered in cork and paper, which allows the pins to be placed into the surface. This is a table of convenient height and size is a definite aid in cutting and constructing garments. 5’ x 3’ is a desirable size with 2" x 6“ height
Thimble-
Made of either plastic or metal material w/c is used to protect the finger from being pricked by the needle when sewing
Emery Bag-
Used for thrusting needles and pins. They sharpens the needles ad removes rust
Sewing Box-
Serves as a utility box. Sewing tools like pins, thread, thimbles, and others can be kept in this box. Sewing boxes vary in style, such as the compartmentalized and non-compartmentalized box.
Awl-
It is a small, sharp-pointed tool used to punch small, round holes for marking on paper or leathers Loop Turner:
Is a long wire with a latch hook, used for turning bias strips to make spaghetti straps and narrow belts
Yardstick /Meter scale
It is available in 36 inches or 45 inches in length in wood or metal. They are useful for checking grain lines when fixing pattern pieces on material and for drawing long seam lines on fabric or paper
Sewing Tools
Orange-stick:
This is a long tool whose point can be inserted into the corners of collars, seams, etc., so as to give a neat pointed appearance Embroidery Frame:
This is used for keeping the fabric stretched while the work is being carried out
Sewing Tools
Bodkin:
This is a flat needle with a blunt end and a large eye for threading elastic and tape Stiletto:
This is a sharp pointed instrument for punching holes in material. It is used for forming holes in material. It is used for forming eyelets in belts and for embroidery work
Pins
These come in different sizes for use in different fabrics. The right choice of pins is most essential for good workmanship, speed, and convenience in sewing. Use silk or stainless steel pins. The ball point pins are useful for fine knits. The other types of pins are dressmaker pin and silk a very slender pin with a needle point to be used on delicate fabrics
Dress Form
This is a padded form of body and may be made of wood, cardboard, plaster of paris, reinforced plastic. This is a necessity in all sample rooms for designing and fittings
Summary
The lecture highlights on –
- Types and usage of measuring and marking tools for sewing
- Different cutting and sewing tools used for apparel making
A variety of tools and equipment are used for performing various functions such as cutting and sewing. A knowledge about these tools will help us to choose the right tool to complete a particular task in the process of garment construction
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