Pressing tools, body measurements

Objectives

After undergoing this Course, students will be able to:

• Identify different pressing tools, trims and accessories
• Explain pressing tools, body measurements, trims and accessories
• Demonstrate body measurements

Flat Iron –

Is the small appliance used to remove wrinkles from fabric

Tailor’s ham-

This is a ham-shaped cushion that provides a rounded surface for pressing curved seams like sleeve caps, princess seams, and darts. One side is covered in wool for pressing wool fabrics and the other side, cotton for all other fabrics. The ham is usually filled with sawdust, which

allows it to be shaped and moulded

Tailor’s ham-

Seam / Sleeve roll

This is a tube-shaped cushion that’s used to press seams in sleeves and other narrow areas. The seam roll is inserted into the sleeve, allowing it to be pressed without being creased. It can also be used as a surface for pressing other seams open. One side of the seam roll is covered in wool for pressing wool fabrics and the other side, cotton for all other fabrics.

Seam / Sleeve roll

Sleeve Board

This tool looks like two miniature ironing boards stuck together, one on top of the other. It provides a small, flat surface for pressing sleeves, pant legs and other narrow areas. The sleeve or pant leg is slipped over the board and then pressed

Sleeve Board

Press Mitt

This is a soft pillow with a pocket on one side. It provides a pressing surface for curved areas. It’s covered in wool on one side and cotton on the other. A press mitt can also be slipped over the end of a sleeve board to create a

stable, rounded pressing surface

Press Mitt

• Steam iron with a surface that’s easy to clean
• A heavier iron produce flatter, crisper seams and a narrow tip can help get into hard to reach areas

Ironing board:

A good ironing board is a sturdy one with an adjustable height. The metal base should have holes in it for venting steam, be topped with cotton or wool padding for proper moisture absorption.

Tailor’s Board

Made of wood, this tool consists of numerous surfaces – flat, curved, and pointy – for pressing various shaped seams

Velvet /Needle Board

This is a flexible mat with a bed of tiny needles or pile sticking up from it. It’s used to press velvet and other napped fabrics without crushing the pile. The fabric is placed onto the needle board pile side down, then pressed on the wrong side

Clapper

This is a hand-held wooden block used to flatten bulky areas, create sharp creases, and make smooth, flat seams. After an area has been pressed, the clapper is placed on top of it and pressure is applied until the area cools.

Point presser

Made of wood, the top part of this tool is flat with a point on one end. It provides a flat surface for pressing seams and a pointed surface for pressing points and corners. Its base can be used as a clapper

Pressing Tools

Press Cloth

This is a lightweight cloth used to protect fabrics from the heat of an iron. It’s laid on top of a

fabric as the fabric is pressed. A press cloth can also

be dampened to produce steam

Pressing Rods and Bars

These are wooden tools available in various lengths that look like dowels cut in half lengthwise. Used for items that are too narrow for a seam roll to get in to. They can also be used to press seams open without leaving a ridge in the right side of fabric. The flat side of a pressing rod can also be used as a clapper.

Pressing Rods and Bars

Pressing Tools

An ironing board – is a small, portable, foldable table with a heat resistant surface.

Pressing tools

Iron box, Iron Board, Sleeve board

• Anthropometry refers to the measurement of the human individual
• Anthropometry involves the systematic measurement of the physical properties of the human body, primarily dimensional descriptors of body size and shape
• Today, anthropometry plays an important role in industrial design, clothing design, ergonomics and architecture where statistical data about the distribution of body dimensions in the population are used to optimize products

The student of garment and fashion industry should posses a good working knowledge of the parts of the body, the various types of figures, physical properties, the effects of movement, and the relation of various fitting and draped garments of the body

1.The parts of the body: The bone structure

(skeletal structure)

2.The muscle structure

The form of the body is determined by –

1. The bony skeleton and 2. The overlying muscular system. The general configuration of the body is mainly determined by the bone – structure which supports the body vertically and gives rigidity to the trunk and limbs

In certain parts the bone structure lies deep under the surface beneath a mass of muscular tissue – e.g., the seat, where the massive gluteal muscles gives to the part a shape different from that of the

underlying bone structure

Human body parts for pattern making

• The muscles give the rounded and agreeable form to the human figures, but they only give a finish to that form which the bones have originated
• Taking the figure as a whole when covered with muscles, the rough outline is similar to that of the skeleton though in detail, “the corresponding parts are some what different”
• The form of the body, then is determined by the bony skeleton and the muscles attached to it

The body may be divided under the following headings: 1.Head

2.Arms

3.Trunk

4.Legs

Basic Body Measurements

A well-proportioned figure, regardless of variations due to gender or such, is defined by the alignment of the joints, which is invariable (that is, we perceive something odd if it does vary). This is our groundwork for proportions. Draw your own chart with me as we go, it really helps learning the material

• Start by drawing an oval or egg shape (pointy end down) for a head, and mark down eight measurements, the last one being the ground

The measurement (ideal male height = eight heads) was set down during the Renaissance as an idealization of the human form. It’s rather obvious that very few people are actually eight heads tall (even Northern Europeans, who served as basis for this model, are closer to seven heads), but this is still the best model to start with, as it makes it

The Pelvis

Add the pelvic bone next, simplified as a flattened circle between marks 3 and 4, with the hip joints sitting on 4. Its width is roughly 1.5 to 2 headwidths. You can now draw the spine connecting the head to this most important part of the body, its center of gravity and stability

The Pelvis

• Let’s assume this figure is standing with feet vertically aligned with the hip joints. The knee joints sit on mark 6, as that line corresponds to the bottom of the knee caps.
• When the leg is stretched out, the knee joint is placed on a straight line with the hip and ankle (left). But this straight line is virtual: to complete the leg, connect the hip joint to the inside of the knee cap, and then again, the outside of the knee to the inside of the ankle (right)

This is a very simplified but accurate representation of the actual bone structure, and helps in drawing the natural look of the human leg, which tapers in from the hip, then staggers out at the knee and tapers in again. It also helps with placing the muscles at a later stage

The ribcage-lungs group is the third important volume of the body, after the head and the pelvis. Simplified, it is an oval that starts halfway between 1 and 2, down to mark 3; but it is best to chop off the lower part of it as shown here to imitate the actual rib cage, as the empty part between the two volumes is important: it is soft and subject to change (flat belly, soft belly, wasp waist) and it is also where the most torsion and movement happens in the spine. It’s good to be aware of that and not attach torso and pelvis together like two blocks, as that would “block” your drawing’s range of motion. The width of the oval is roughly the same as the pelvis for now

• Two more details here: the nipples fall on mark 2, just inside the sides of the head, and the belly button on mark 3.

The Shoulders

The shoulder line is about halfway between marks 1 and 2, with the shoulder width 2 to 3 head-widths, but its apparent position can vary a great deal. To begin with, it’s slightly curved down, but in tension the shoulders tense up and the curve can itself turn up and look higher. Furthermore, the trapezius muscle, which from the front appears to connect the shoulder with the neck, is highly individual; if it’s very muscular, or carries much fat, it can make the shoulder line look so high there’s no neck; inversely, an underdeveloped trapezius, often seen in very young women, gives the impression of a long neck.

The Arm, Wrists and Hands

Finally, the arms: The wrists are on mark 4, slightly below the hip joints which sit on it (you can test it out for yourself by standing up and pressing your wrists against your hips). The fingers end roughly at mid-thigh, which is mark 5. The elbows are a slightly complicated joint that we’ll examine in detail later, but for now it’s helpful to mark them as elongated ovals sitting on level 3.

The Arm, Wrists and Hands

Decorative Trims

Rivets:

Rivets are not used to open or close the opening parts of garments

They are used for following purposes:

Widely  used for     decorative and     reinforcement (support) purposes of Denim or Jeans garments

Rivets has two parts and requires an appropriate

device to attach on garments

Decorative Trims

Pattern Accessories

The materials or components except the main fabric used in the garments are called garment accessories. Besides the main fabric, various additional things are used for making the garments. Accessories include Sewing Thread, Button, Zipper, Velcro, Label, Shoulder pad, Linings, Interlinings, etc. Accessories are of two types namely visible accessories and invisible accessories. Some accessories are used for functional purposes and some are for decorative purposes

Pattern Accessories

Types of Accessories

• Visible accessories: Visible accessories can be seen from outside of the garments e.g. Button, Sewing Thread, Zipper, Velcro, etc.
• Invisible accessories: They can not be seen from outside of the garments e.g. Interlining

Types of Label

Labels

• Main label: Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer which is registered by the buyer e.g. Levi’s, Polo, Addidus, GAP, Lewis Philippe, etc
• Size label: It indicates the size of the garment i.e. S, M, L, XL, XXL, or collar length of shirt 15, 16, 17, 18, etc
• Care label: It contains the care instructions of the garment by some internationally recognized signs. It shows the washing, drying, dry-cleaning and ironing conditions of garments

Sub Labels

Care code label:

Due to daily usage, normally a garment becomes dirty. This garment should be cleaned and ironed before further using. For this caring of garment, some rules or instructions are expressed by some internationally recognized symbols which are called international care labeling cod

Sub Labels

Summary

In this lecture different types of pressing tools, trims and accessories were taught with Identification and explanation. Body measurements, Human anatomy and Anthropometry were taught   with demonstration.